Photo essay · Oregon

A place to stand

Great Vow Zen Monastery, where the White Plum lineage is kept alive through silence, work, and an unexpected warmth.

Blue hand-painted Great Vow Zen Monastery welcome sign among evergreen trees beside a country road
Great Vow Zen Monastery

A hand-painted welcome sign stands among the trees at the turn onto the monastery grounds.

Clatskanie, Oregon

There’s a feeling that rises the moment you turn down the long road leading to Great Vow Zen Monastery—something quiet, steady, and unmistakably ancient. Even before you see the cedar-lined temple buildings or hear the echo of the gongs across the wetlands, you can sense the lineage that has shaped this place. It sits in the Oregon countryside like a deep inhale: spacious, intentional, patient.

Great Vow is part of the Zen Community of Oregon, rooted in the White Plum lineage, a stream of Buddhist practice flowing from Japanese Zen master Hakuyu Taizan Maezumi Roshi, carried forward by his successors, and kept alive here through the guidance of Chozen Bays Roshi and Hogen Bays Roshi. Their lives and teachings pulse through the monastery’s rhythm—through the way people walk the halls at dawn, through the laughter in the kitchen, through the courage with which residents meet the raw edges of their own hearts. The lineage is not decoration here; it’s the spine of the place, the quiet architecture around which everything else unfolds.

When I first stepped inside the zendo, I felt that strange mixture of awe and familiarity that comes when you enter a space built for sincerity. Rows of black cushions, candlelight drifting across the Buddha altar, the faint trace of incense still hanging in the air from the morning sit. It’s not dramatic. It’s not dressed up. But it’s charged with something unmistakable—the residue of thousands of hours of people confronting their own minds, breath by breath.

The lineage is not decoration here; it’s the spine of the place.

Zendo with a polished wood floor, rows of black meditation cushions, paper lanterns, and an altar at the far end
Rows of black cushions wait on the zendo floor beneath paper lanterns, the altar lit at the far end of the hall.

What makes Great Vow unique is not simply its monastic schedule—though the discipline is unmistakable. The wake-up bell at 4:50. The silence before breakfast. The alternating rhythm of sitting and working, chanting and chores, the simplicity of robes and bowls. What strikes me most is how this discipline is carried with such warmth, such humanity. There’s a tenderness here. A feeling that you’re being held by something steady, ancient, and kind.

Resident in a blue work jacket and ear protection cutting wood at a chop saw outside a building
Work practice: a resident in ear protection cuts lumber at the chop saw between periods of sitting.
Residents and guests standing with palms joined around a long wooden table in a large hall
Residents and guests stand with palms joined around the long tables of the hall.
Three people standing in a common room beneath framed calligraphy of three Chinese characters
Three residents stand beneath calligraphy of the Three Treasures: Buddha, Dharma, Sangha.

Their core programs reflect that same blend of structure and heart. The monastery is known for its year-round residency program, a rare invitation for anyone—regardless of background—to step inside a traditional Zen monastic container. People come for a month, a season, or years at a time, giving themselves fully to the experiment of practice. The Sesshin retreats, week-long immersions in silence and long sitting, form the backbone of the training, and yet they unfold with a gentleness that feels very much like Chozen and Hogen’s signature: rigorous but compassionate, serious but never austere for its own sake.

Garden tools and lumber stacked against a building wall beneath a Quincy-Mayger Elementary School sign
Rakes, shovels, and lumber line the wall beneath an old Quincy-Mayger Elementary School sign.

There’s also something unexpected woven into the life of this monastery: an openness to creative and embodied practice that expands the traditional Zen frame without diluting it. Rituals like the Loving-Kindness Sesshin or the Jizo Ceremonies for grief and remembrance bring a deeply human dimension to the training. You feel the breadth of what Zen can be here—not just sharp, precise inquiry into the nature of mind, but also a shelter for the tenderness and broken pieces we rarely know how to carry.

Small Jizo statues wearing red bibs among ferns beneath moss-covered branches
Jizo figures in red bibs stand among ferns beneath moss-heavy branches in the monastery woods.

In many ways, Great Vow feels like a microcosm of what this entire project is trying to understand. How do ancient lineages find new expression in modern lives? How do people today, with their restless minds and digital distractions, step into structures built for depth, silence, and transformation? And how does a place like this—remote, quiet, uncompromising in its simplicity—continue to draw people from all corners of the world who are hungry for something real?

Weathered stone Buddha seated in tall grass at the edge of the woods, small stones placed on its lap and base
A weathered stone Buddha sits in the grass at the edge of the woods, small stones left on its lap and base.
Small stucco hut with a shingled roof among bamboo, seen from a covered walkway
A small hut stands among the bamboo, seen from a covered walkway.

Maybe that’s the real power of lineage: it gives us a place to stand when everything else feels uncertain. And maybe that’s the gift of a monastery like this: a living reminder that awakening is not an abstract concept but a daily, embodied, sometimes messy, always courageous act.

A tall stone pagoda stands on a lawn between bamboo and autumn trees at dusk
A stone pagoda rises between the bamboo and the autumn trees at dusk.Clatskanie, Oregon

At a glance

Great Vow Zen Monastery


Zen Community of Oregon
Tradition
Zen · White Plum lineage
Teachers
Chozen Bays Roshi and Hogen Bays Roshi
Practice
Year-round residency, sesshin retreats, Loving-Kindness Sesshin, Jizo ceremonies
Location
Clatskanie, Oregon · Zen Community of Oregon

The gift of a monastery

Awakening is not an abstract concept but a daily, embodied, sometimes messy, always courageous act.

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